adventure

12 Days of Christmas - Braemar, the Snow Roads


On the second day of Christmas, the wee yin said to me …… Let's go Braemar.

Although beautiful Braemar is the town, we are highlighting today our trip was actually to drive the Cairngorms Snow Roads. I’ve mentioned the snow roads to a few friends previously, and no one was even aware of the route so a bit of housekeeping first. The Cairngorm Snow Roads are a 90-mile roundtrip starting in Blairgowrie and ending in Grantown-on-Spey. The roads snake through the Cairngorm National Park and take in some outstanding towns and villages such as Ballater (stunning), Tomintoul and of course Braemar. The route has spectacular scenery from start to finish and also has the highest public road in Great Britain. Another huge factor is the potential for Wildlife viewing, keep your eyes peeled! On my first trip, I spotted a pine martin crossing a road late one night—a massive tick off the list, massive. 

It doesn't really matter what time of year you decide to take on the Snow Roads as our ever-changing seasons offer their own particular sense of beauty. I’ve done this a few times now, but my favourite is during autumn or at the start of the year when there is still snow on the ground. The road is super popular with those in the know and on my last tour we witnessed Land Rover testing their latest high-end vehicles camouflaged to hide the contours. I believe Top Gear has used it for filming.

All up to speed? Ok, so we can begin.

Starting off early from Glasgow we had got into Blairgowrie super early. Breakfast in the van of boiled eggs and toast, and then we are off. Straight away, we are into the wilderness and delighted to see some snow. Our initial drive is only for around an hour however we make plenty of stops along the way for pictures, particularly at the Devils Elbow where we have the first of the Connecting Contours scenic route installations - and then onto the Glenshee Ski Resort. 

Finally, we get into town. Braemar is such an iconic village in Deeside, famous for the nearby Royal residence of Balmoral Castle and the annual Highland Games - the Gathering! I believe Her Majesty is a regular attendee. Braemar has always been popular with walkers, skiers, climbers, bikers and travellers. The village always, always presents itself exceptionally well. For this trip, we decided to use the Braemar Caravan Park A lovely spot we've used on numerous occasions, extremely well-run, fantastic facilities and most importantly, a short walk into town for dinner and drinks after a long day adventuring. 

After getting checked in, we drove off in the direction of Ballater to visit the Linn of Dee waterfalls and forestry walks. Worth noting here there is a car park available with ample spaces however it’s £3 per day for non-members or free for National Trust for Scotland/National Trust members. Yet another reason to support our National Trust for Scotland

The falls and forest are a great walk and its fantastic to see so many brave the cold waters of the River Dee for an icy dip! Here we made our excuses and left!! In all seriousness, the falls are gorgeous, its fascinating to see the whole river squeezed down to around a meter, such force. It would be even better to see on a rainy day.

Time for a spot of food, coffee and a wander around the town. For food we thought we would give Taste Braemar a go, tasty local produce served with a smile. Simple and very effective. A special mention for the coffee here, just gorgeous.  Full up, it was time for the shops. It proved hard to get Lorna out of The Braemar Gallery it has such a beautiful collection of unique Scottish arts, a real treasure trove,. My favourite was McLean of Braemar a very particular gift shop with a solemn nod towards the magnificent Red Deer of the area. It would seem absolutely everything is better with a little horn! Who’d have thought? I have always wanted a set of antlers, perhaps next time. 

You know a wee special shout out goes to the staff of the local Co-op, always friendly, always smiling and very helpful.  These people in the shops up and down the country from early till late, day in day out deserve our praise, particularly this year. 

The big treat tonight was a visit to the refurbished Fife Arms and ‘the Clunie’ restaurant. This place is an institution in the area, made super famous back in Queen Victoria’s time. The interior has to be seen to be believed. Contemporary, decadent, flamboyant! I just don’t have the words to describe it; we just loved it. The food and service were exceptional and every course containing a hint of the local area devoured. We moved into the Stag bar, again an outstanding interior, for a wee dram @thebalvenie before heading along the road for a final nightcap in Farquharsons Bar and Kitchen, an old favourite. Great beers and atmosphere the perfect finish to a lovely day.

I guess we now just need to score some tickets for the Braemar Gathering …...any offers?